In Luther's footsteps

By James Howell

My 20-year-old daughter and I were touring Martin Luther sites in Germany a couple of weeks ago. She had taken a pair of courses on the Reformation and Luther at Duke, and wanted to get the lay of the land.

So one chilly, rainy day we found ourselves on the way to the Augustinian monastery in Erfurt where Luther lived for the years before he went to Wittenburg. Happily, we bumped into a band of American tourists, retired Lutheran pastors and their spouses, all wide-eyed, all soaking in their heritage as they walked the paths they had been tutored in and had preached to others.

Deep inside the building we sat in a small chapel, unchanged since the 16th century. When their guide stopped his spiel, he said, “The acoustics in here are fantastic. Some groups like to sing. Would you like to sing something before we leave?”

There was no conferring; no one said a word. But suddenly the whole group raised their voices on the same hymn, and on key.

Or perhaps it wasn’t so amazingly after all. A mighty fortress is our God, a bulwark never failing… At the end of the first stanza, there was no decrescendo or ritardando. We plunged into the next line, and—like wings spreading to fly—the altos, tenors and basses assumed their harmonies. Did we in our own strength confide, our striving would be losing were not the right man on our side…

I could not sing, as I found myself choking back emotion. My daughter turned toward me, perceptive to our shared love for Luther and hymnody and things historical and beautiful.

And though this world with devils filled should threaten to undo us, we will not fear… Luther really had done combat with devils, and I suspected these grizzled church veterans had battled a few in their day. Many had walking canes and hearing aids; one was on oxygen. Let goods and kindred go, this mortal life also; the body they may may kill; God’s truth abideth still. Voices reunited in the fourth stanza, and the decrescendo and firm finality of His kingdom is forever.

Then no one moved. The silence was unspeakably rich, and tears glistened in several eyes. There were broad smiles, a few heads bowed in the deepest gratitude—we were Lutheran pilgrims, finally arriving home. I will never forget the shimmering miracle of this glimpse into heaven.

Is there a moment from your travels when you stumbled into the presence of God?

James Howell is senior pastor of Myers Park United Methodist Church in Charlotte, North Carolina.

Comments

[Jason Byassee]

This is gorgeous James. I'd always poo-poo'd (to use a technical term) those pilgrimages to Europe in Wesley's footsteps or whatever. Maybe I need a few more decades and fewer working limbs...

[Randy Jones]

I am Lutheran and I have to say that I doubt my own response in such a situation would be as the one described. I am reticent to turn the Reformation into a God event that saved the church. I personally do not believe that God had anything to do with the schism that occurred either during the Reformation or the first schism of 1054.

It's time we admit that the fractious and wounded state of the church today is the result of human sinfulness. Greed fueled both sides in the struggles of the Reformation. Luther managed to get himself stuck between the Pope and the German princes and he was too much of an idealist to recognize how he was being used by the German princes.

The only tears that I personally would shed are for the sins of the Church and its fractured state. One of these days we are going to quit celebrating the Reformation as a grand moment when German Christians threw off the evil yoke of the Church and recreated the true church.

One of these days we are going to recognize our need for one another and shrug off our prideful need to be right. When that happens the Church may again sing its beautiful harmonious praises of our Savior, and many more will hear the truth and come to the faith.

Thus, I refuse to shed tears of joy over "Lutheran pilgrims, finally arriving home." Instead, I shed tears of sorrow over pilgrimages that glorify human accomplishments such as the splitting of Christ's "one, holy, catholic and apostolic church" into what it is today.

[N Larson]

I am Lutheran also, but a lowly lay person, who feels Randy needs a sentimental side??
Wasn't the question about a trip where one stumbled into the presence of God? I do not feel those 'old people' were debating the reasons for the Reformation. So, let them enjoy the trip.
I would bet they have spent their lives serving others and may be deserving of their emotion, with an unexpected worship experience and and the tears that went with it.

[John C. Bonser]

Randy,
I saw nothing in the article that suggestes that God caused the schism on 1054.

Of course human sinfulness has a major roll. Recall Luther's Sacristy Prayer:

"Lord God, You have appointed me as a Bishop and Pastor in Your Church, but
you see how unsuited I am to meet so great and difficult a task. If I had
lacked Your help, I would have ruined everything long ago. Therefore, I
call upon You: I wish to devote my mouth and my heart to you; I shall
teach the people. I myself will learn and ponder diligently upon You Word.
Use me as Your instrument -- but do not forsake me, for if ever I should
be on my own, I would easily wreck it all."

Those of us who have been through bad times understand the verse "And though this world with devils filled should threaten to undo us, we will not fear… " Every time we sing that verse the tears have nothing to do with your imagined "grand moment when German Christians threw off the evil yoke . . . ."

In spite of our sin, in spite of our differences we rejoice that we are "One, holy, catholic and apostolic church."

[Lynne]

Thank you, James, for your powerful memories. I was a Lutheran parish pastor for 20 years, and when you asked which hymn the group began to sing, it took me just one moment to imagine it must have been the Reformation hymn may of us know by heart.

In the mid 1980's, as a young pastor, I had the opportunity to travel to Israel with a group of clergy from Wisconsin. I was one of two women, and the youngest in the group. It was a whirlwind tour, but there were moments for me - on the shore of Galilee - standing by the Jordan River - standing on the steps of the Temple Mount - where I was filled with awe, joy and humility. Not unlike those battle worn clergy you write about.

[Ron]

"Stumbling into the presence of God" is a strange concept, since God, an infinite and spiritual being, is everywhere (and more).

[abbye]

Mmmmm, I love Luther, and North Carolina, and singing hymns in chapels with fantastic acoustics!
Thanks for painting this beautiful picture for us to see.